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Six Tips For Decks Built to
Last
With only a few dozen deck screws, lag screws, galvanized
nails, bolts, joists, posts, braces, flashing, concrete bags,
gravel, stain, thinner, drill, level, plumb bob, hammer,
measuring tape... you too can build a deck. Sounds complicated
already, eh? No one can teach you to build a deck in one page.
But here are some tips about how to build a deck that's
stronger, lasts longer and gives you the result you want.
Tip #1
First, this is one time doing things the old-fashioned way may
not be entirely the best idea. Get one of the many good
software packages to help you design your deck. It won't cut
wood, but they're terrific at helping you visualize the result.
They provide design alternatives, materials lists, tools
needed, measurements and sometimes even building codes.
Tip #2
Once you have careful plans you need materials. Pressure
treated 2 x 4's or 2 x 6's and 4 x 4's of pine, cedar or
redwood are good choices. But consider also the newer
alternatives. Several manufacturers offer composites that look
and feel very much like wood, especially from further away than
a few feet. Though the initial outlay is higher, they'll far
outlast even stained wood. They require no staining or painting
every few years and are stronger and less subject to
warping.
Tip #3
Every deck needs a strong foundation. Unless you have the tools
and skills to level prepare ground, create good concrete pier
holes and pour concrete, then apply perfectly vertical anchors
at the proper moment, this is a step you may want professional
help for. All other steps are well within the reach of the
average do-it-yourself-er with a little assistance.
Tip #4
Building codes in most localities determine the required
distance between support piers. Within those limits, though,
you have some choice. Since most lumber comes in 8 foot or 12
foot lengths, making support distances equal to or less than
that leads to fewer cuts. Make it easy on yourself.
Tip #5
In most designs, ledger boards lay up against the house to
support the joists (support beams under the walking surface).
Some designs have Z-shaped flashing that lays up against the
house, on the ledger board top and side surfaces.
If placed correctly that can work well. But metal flashing can
warp with temperature changes. Nail or screw holes can leave
small entrances for water. Sealing the flashing is one extra
step that requires skill and care.
To avoid the hassle and avoid moisture buildup - leading to
mold, corrosion, etc - move the ledger board away from the wall
slightly with metal washers. That can also eliminate the need
to remove siding.
Tip #6
Use screws and bolts wherever possible, not nails. Even the
best nails rust. Stain, used on most decks, doesn't stick well
to them, eventually leaving them exposed. Over time they're
more prone to becoming loose. Screws rust, too, of course. But
they retain their fastening power far longer.
The downside is: nails are often quicker and easier to hammer
in than installing screws or bolts. But with a good power
screwdriver attachment to your hand-held drill, that problem is
easily solved.
However you choose to build your deck, one old-fashioned idea
is still valid: thorough planning, measuring and careful
execution avoids costly and unsightly mistakes. Take your time.
The results will show.
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